South Sea Cultured Pearls
From Mergui,
Burma (Myanmar)
Photos and texts by
Vincent Pardieu (Gubelin
Gem Lab, Lucerne, Switzerland)
Special thanks to my traveling companions:
Kham Vannaxay (Sofragem,
Bangkok, Thailand)
Christian Dunaigre (Gubelin
Gem Lab, Lucerne, Switzerland)
This expedition,
even if it was privately
conducted during their holidays
and financed by the authors,
was supported by the Gubelin
Gem Lab located in Lucerne,
Switzerland, where two members
of the Mergui expedition:
Christian Dunaigre and myself
were working as gemologists
at the time of the expedition.
Abstract:
This web page presents the
field trip Vincent Pardieu
and Christian Dunaigre,
gemologists at the Gubelin
Gem Lab, Lucerne Switzerland,
had with Kham Vannaxay (Sofragem,
Bangkok, Thailand) to the
Myanmar Orient Pearl Co
Ltd south sea pearl farming
operation in the Mergui
archipelago from Dec 08
to Dec 13, 2007. A report
about this visit was published
in Jewelry
News Asia March 2008
issue.
1) Introduction:
A rapid presentation of
the Mergui archipelago,
its importance for the cultured
pearl industry and a presentation
of some key people I want
to give some very special
thanks to have helped us
to visit Mergui.
2 ) From
Mergui to Ravenshaw island,
a cruise through the Mergui
archipelago: From Mergui
harbor we had a 10 hours
cruise on the Mergui archipelago,
a remote and difficult to
access tropical archipelago
located in the south of
Burma on the Andaman sea.
It was a wonderful visit
of one of the last archipelago
still out of range of any
tourism industry. We passed
numerous beautiful Burmese
fishing villages with their
wooden houses and golden
stupas, passed the remote
"marble islands"
where bird nests are collected.
Sailing in the archipelago
from one pearl farm to another
gave us also the chance
to meet the sea gypsies
of Mergui: The Salon people
living a nomadic life of
their small boats.
3 ) A
visit to the Orient Pearl
Co Ltd pearl farm around
Ravenshaw island.
In Formerly known as "Myanmar
Ocean Pearl Co Ltd"
the "Myanmar Orient
Pearl Co Ltd" is a
private company which is
working at Ravenshaw island
since 1993. Its owner, U
Myint Lwin was first involved
in fishing before to become
one of the main pearl producer
in Mergui. "Myanmar
Orient Pearl Co Ltd"
was presented to us as the
second most important pearl
farm in Mergui after Tasaki,
a Japanese company and Myanmar
Pearl Enterprises, the Burmese
state owned company. In
1999 Kham Vannaxay visited
already the operation with
Ted Themelis. A report was
published later by Ted Themelis.
It was interesting to see
that pearl farming in Mergui
changed dramatically since
that visit,
We invite
you to follow our winter
2007 field trip to the mergui
pearl farms using the potential
given by the free software
Google
Earth. Just download
and install the software,
then using our links you
can get a better idea about
the mining areas we visited
or those for which information
is available in the gemological
literature. We recommend
you to select the "terrain"
option (down left in the
"layer" booklet)
in order to enjoy a 3D visit.
Using
our
Google Earth placemarks,
you can now follow our expedition
and explore the Mergui archipelago
downloading the placemarks
we prepared.
Just download them clicking
on the icon on the left to
discover the
Mergui archipelago.
The Mergui archipelago is
located in the south of Burma
(Myanmar), it is composed
of more than 800 tropical
islands covered with forest.
Mergui (Myek), the archipelago
main sea port with its 70.000
inhabitants is a ethnically
very diverse: Its population
is mainly composed of men
and women of Burmese, Chinese,
Indian, Karen, Mon origin.
The area is also famous for
its "sea gypsies"
called "Salons"
by the Burmese, "Chao
Naam" by the Thais and
"Moken" in many
English publication. Probably
less than 2000 sea gypsies
still live on small boats
in the archipelago, others
left to settle around Phuket
and Phan Nga. The city has
a rich history and past. It
was known for centuries as
a dynamic trading seaport.
It was regularly visited by
foreign travelers and traders
(Themelis).
The city was in the past Siamese
or Burmese. It was annexed
by the British after the first
Anglo Burmese war and remained
under British rule until the
Burmese independence in 1948.
In the gemological community
the Mergui Archipelago is
famous for its large golden
color "South Sea"
pearls from the past. Recently
cultured pearl production
was reformed and Mergui pearls
seen to be back in the world
markets mainly in Japan and
Hong Kong trading centers.
We had our first contact
with Mergui "Cultured
South Sea" pearls at
the Mergui airport few minutes
after our arrival. There
we were welcomed by some
fiends of U Myint Lwin the
owner of Orient pearl Co
ltd.
One of them, U Maung Win,
immediately got all our
attention: This strong,
friendly looking man with
his proud moustache, was
wearing a beautiful white
pearl as a ring..
I've to say that it was
the first time I saw a man
with such a pearl ring and
we were surprised, very
positively surprised in
fact.. It was a beautiful
ring!
Mergui people tare told
us that pearl was worn as
a symbol for peace, but
more officially at the Yangon
Emporium gem museum, in
the traditional Burmese
"Nine Esteemed Gems",
pearls are told to be symbols
of pride, glory and grace.
Our team was lead by U
Myint Lwin, a Burmese marine
biologist turned into a
private entrepreneur involved
is fisheries and more recently
into pearl farming .
He is the owner of "Orient
Pearl Co Ltd", a man
in love with his boats,
and his pearls.
He amazed us as he was
never missing an opportunity
to sail or to drive giving
me the feeling that I was
not the only "travel
addicted" person around..
Thanks to him we were about
to discover this remote
archipelago, perhaps the
last "tourist free"
tropical archipelago on
Earth.
To take us around in the
Mergui archipelago, U Myint
Lwin asked one of his friends
U Tin Nge to join our expedition.
U Tin Nge has spent his
life on the bay working
with Burmese, Thais and
with the Salons, the Mergui
"Sea Gypsies".
For our pleasure and his
pride he was also wearing
a golden "South Sea
Pearl" as a ring. A
beautiful pearl coming from
the "Orient Pearl"
farm: Our destination!
1) From
Mergui to Ravenshaw island,
a cruise through the Mergui
archipelago
Immediately
after our arrival at Mergui
airport, we left to Mergui
Harbor to take our place the
"Ashe Tai Palei"
(the "Orient Pearl"
in Burmese, a boat from U
Myint Lwin fleet used as transport
between Mergui and Ravenshaw
island. Just before our departure
I had the chance to take this
photo of the man and his boat
who were about to lead us
for a wonderful journey to
this remote archipelago:
We left Mergui Harbor on
the "Ashe Tai Palei", the
Orient Pearl. Within few
minutes we were sailing
in the middle of tens of
other boats along the beautiful
old city crowned with giant
trees, mysterious monasteries
and golden stupas..
Video courtesy Christian
Dunaigre.
For
several hours we were cruising
on the quiet waters of the
Mergui archipelago composed
of more than 800 islands.
It was not without reminding
me of the scenic Ha Long bay
in Vietnam I visited also
in 2005 to visit pearl farms..
From
Dec 09 to Dec 12 2007, with
U Myint Lwin and U Tin Nge
we had a wonderful pair of
friends to open us the doors
of the Mergui archipelago
from its pearl farms to its
bird nest islands, from its
Burmese fishing villages to
its "Sea Gypsies"
sailing the bay on their small
boats..
Here
are some selected photos of
Mergui archipelago landscape:
First the "Rock Turtle"
a rock which shape reminds
a turtle on which 5 years
ago was build a pagoda. A
donation by a boat captain.
Each time we were passing
the rock a sailor was going
to the head of the boat with
rice and water for a prayer
and some offerings..
The
village of "Sakan Thit"
meaning "New Camp"
is the largest village is
Mergui archipelago with 20.000
people with fishing as the
main activity. It is located
in the north of the Sellore
island.
A
visit to "Thal Chaung
Yua": Thal Chaung
Yua village is located on
Domel island. It's name means
"the sandy stream village".
It is after "Sakan Thit"
the largest village in Mergui
archipelago with about 6000
people. It's pile houses are
located around a muddy channel
navigable at high tide. The
village is very Burmese with
its pagoda, its boat construction
site and its school. The atmosphere
there was very lively and
food was just great..
Arriving in Thal Chaung
Yua with the "Orient Pearl"...
Video courtesy Christian
Dunaigre.
Life in Thal Chaung Yua
was appearing very colorful
and peaceful. Down the Pagoda,
build on the hill, was the
village school with possibly
200 lively children. The
village main activity was
fishing, and betel production.
The main street was busy
with people coming in and
out carrying goods and food.
The arrival of three foreigners
in the village was a small
event. People were nice
and smiling, young Burmese
speaking English came to
us to practice a little
bit while mother were bringing
to us their children visibly
in order to show them some
leaving foreigners.. We
had then some great photograph
opportunities..
We had our lunch at U Tin
Nge sister house. This strong,
very charismatic women was
a great cook and our lunch
turned into a real feast
we took with the owner of
the Bird nest license at
marble island. A great occasion
to ask him some questions
and get his approval to
visit the island and its
precious hidden cave.
"Bird
nests" from the "Marble
islands":
After our visit to Thal
Chaung Yua we left to "Nyet
Tiak Kyunn", the Marble
islands, in order to visit
the cave were the famous
bird nests are found. The
birds, in fact swallows,
build these nests each year
with their saliva and they
are a traditional delicacy
for Chinese people. Mergui
archipelago is no the only
place in the world were
these nests are collected,
I was even told recently
that some people in Chanthaburi,
Thailand stopped his gem
burning business to start
a bird nest business as
he found a way to attract
the birds in his house..
We were told that the Marble
island bird nest production
was estimated around 40kg
per year, a drop compared
to the several hundreds
of kilos we were told to
be produced each year in
other areas of the archipelago
in Mali island and even
in some houses of Mergui
city. But marble islands
is probably one of the most
scenic area of the archipelago
for this production, with
its vertical white marble
cliff covered with a scare
vegetation they are a fine
example of karstic relief
as we can found in Halong
Bay in Vietnam or in Phan
Nga bay in Thailand:
In Marble Islands, the cave
where the swallows build
their nests is located in
a lagoon which can be accessed
only at low tide though
a deep cave connecting the
sea to the lagoon. The bird
nests are collected in the
deep cave using some bamboo
ladders in March first as
soon as the birds have build
their nests and then in
June when the youngsters
have left their nests.
As we visited the area in
December, we could not see
any bird nest, just the
empty guardian hut at the
entrance of the cave and
some piles of Bamboo waiting
in the cave for the next
spring and a new harvest.
Nevertheless we were lucky
to see during our expedition
in Burma how the bird nests
are cleaned using tweezers
of any trace of dirt.. Here
are some photos and short
movies you might found interesting
about this expedition:
Here is a short video taken
while we were approaching
the marble islands where
the bird nest are found
in a remote lagoon..
Video Vincent Pardieu.
The
"Mokens", the
Mergui Sea Gypsies:
During our visit of the
different pearl farming
sites around Ravenshaw island,
we were lucky to meet two
times the famous "sea
gypsies" of Mergui:
The "Salons" people
as the Burmese call them
or the "Moken"
people as they are named
in many English speaking
publications.
For centuries they were
outcasts, living a nomadic
existence in the sea they
were possibly the oldest
inhabitants of the region.
Thanks to U Tin Nge who
can speak their language
we were able to share with
them some precious minutes
and some fresh sea food..
The
first family we met was
drying the result of their
fishing on the beach, the
family was composed of a
man, his wife and their
children. He bought from
them some dry sea food for
our diner.
Here
is a short video taken while
we were approaching this Moken
family and the boat they were
living in..
Video courtesy Christian Dunaigre.
Moken people were known
in the past to be excellent
divers.
For centuries they were
living on the sea on the
archipelago, fishing and
sometimes probably diving
to collect oysters to get
their natural pearls.
It is not clear if they
were working as free men
or forced to dive by local
leaders..
But it seems that they have
after many centuries adapted
to the sea (Gilsen,
2003).
During our expedition we
did not heard about Moken
people still diving to collect
natural pearls, but many
Moken worked as professional
pearl divers during the
last 120 years.
The
second group was composed
of several men, women and
children. Most women from
this group were wearing
some Burmese style gold
and ruby jewelry. They were
looking more wealthy than
the first group and were
taking their lunch, composed
of rice and fried squid
on their boat. Several small
pirogues used for fishing
were attached to the main
boat. Later we will find
again two of the old ladies
of this groups fishing squids
on their tiny pirogue. A
great occasion for us to
taste some squid sashimi..
Here
is a short video taken during
our visit to the second group
of Moken people we met while
sailing near Ravenshaw island.
The Moken were sharing some
fried squid they fished using
their small boats and a simple
line.
Video courtesy Christian Dunaigre.
Here is another short video
where two old sea gypsy
ladies were fishing squids.
They were members of the
second group we met few
hours before. U Tin Nge
bought some squids from
them that few minutes later
were turned into yummy sashimi..
Video courtesy Christian
Dunaigre.
Part
3: A visit to the "Orient
Pearl Co Ltd" farm
around Ravenshaw island:
An introduction
to the history of Pearling
in Mergui:
Pearling was a traditional
activity in Mergui for centuries
as different pearl producing
oysters species are found
in Mergui including the
Pinctada Maxima
and the Pteria Pinguin.
According to B.Bronson in
"Pearls
without price",
2000:
" The other great pearling
area of ancient times lay
in Southeast Asia, the Mergui
Archipelago of Burma-Myanmar,
the Leizhou Peninsula of
southern China, and the
Sulu Islands of the southern
Philippines. With long histories
of reasonably continuous
use, these supplied pearls
to markets that lay outside
the sphere of the Bombay-centered
commercial system that controlled
the bulk of the world's
pearl trade. Mergui and
Sulu, as well as occasionally
exploited pearl beds in
eastern Indonesia, produced
a different kind of pearls,
golden ones from the very
large pearl oyster species
Pinctada Maxima.
The pearls were much larger
than those from Sri Lanka
and the Persian Gulf, and
are exceptionally beautiful
in modern eyes: even now,
insiders claim that the
finest cultured pearls in
the world come from Mergui.
Early pearl buyers may not
have agreed, however. Southeast
Asian pearls were not a
major factor in the world's
jewelry trade. The Chinese
knew about them but obviously
preferred pearls from places
further west, and the Indians
and Persians may not even
have known that Southeast
Asian pearls existed."
"In 1839 Augustus Siebe
developed diving gear which
was eagerly adapted by companies
with sufficient capital
to purchase the necessary
equipment. The addition
of diving equipment not
only enabled divers to reach
greater depths (up to approximately
54m) than had previously
been possible with free-diving,
but also to increase the
proportion of the year in
which it was possible to
collect oysters from three
to nine months. The development
also enabled stocks in deeper
waters to be exploited and,
by the late 1800s, areas
in the Aru islands, the
Mergui Archipelago and the
Sulu Archipelago were being
fished. Faced with the high
costs of the pearling operations,
pearlers generally adopted
the strategy of extracting
as much as possible is quickly
as possible and then moving
on to another oyster bed.
This strategy was adopted
in all three of the main
pearling areas.
The first area where the
diving equipment resulted
in an increase in yield
was in the Mergui Archipelago
where, according to an official
report by Rudmore Brown
and Simpson in 1907, the
was no systematic pearling
in the archipelago before
1891 when the attention
of the government was drawn
to these banks by a Queensland
pearler [presumably from
the Torres Straits]. To
Manage this fishery, the
government of Burma immediately
introduced a “block
system” whereby the
government auctioned the
rights to collect pearl
oysters in five “block”
covering the richest pearling
grounds. As a result of
this system the mentality
was adopted that it was
imperative to extract as
much pearl shell as possible
during the year as the same
company would not necessary
secure the same block the
following year. Official
figures indicate the yield
rose dramatically from 26
tons in 1891/92 to 340 tons
in 1894/95, leading to the
emergence of Mergui a a
boomtown. By 1900/01 the
yield had fallen to 66 tonnes
and the government abolished
the block system and replaced
it by a system under which
pearlers bought a license
for each pump they used.
During this period the accepted
view was that there was
little danger of overexploitation
of the Mergui pearl bed
as the beds were continually
restocked by the offspring
produced by oysters in deeper
waters beyond the reach
of the divers. It was argued
that there was a natural
balance between the number
of divers and the quantity
of shell available, as yields
fell, divers would leave
and the stock would recover.
As a result it was concluded
that the was no need for
any sort of regulation of
the Mergui pearl fishery."
At that times pearls were
recovered from wild oysters
.It is only during the 1950's
that pearl farming was introduced
and developed in Mergui
by Japanese cultured pearl
producers: Tint Tun in his
article "Myanmar
pearling: past, present
and future" report
the following in 1998:
"Pearl culture in Myanmar
commenced in 1954 after
the establishment of a private
Japanese—Myanmar joint-venture
farm. The joint-venture
farm, Burma Pearl Fishing
and Culture Syndicate, started
pearl cultivation at Domel
Island. Then, about two
years later, they moved
from Domel to Sir J. Malcolm
Island (later, it was named
Pearl Island) which has
more favorable conditions
for pearl culture.. Divers
equipped with the most modern
diving gear of that time
collected pearl oysters,
and joint-venture could
successfully cultivate Myanmar
pearls.
The Revolutionary Government
nationalized the joint-venture
farm on 16 August 1963.
After nationalization, the
Syndicate, People’s
Pearl and Fishery Board
tried to produce pearls
using Myanmar citizens.
At that time, the pearl
culture branch was temporarily
attached to the Salt Industry,
and it was finally transformed
into a separate enterprise
in 1989, Myanmar Pearl Enterprise
(MPE), under the Ministry
of Mines.
In 1988, Myanmar reformed
its socialist economy to
become a market-oriented
economy, and a total of
three joint-venture companies,
both local and foreign,
are now undertaking Myanmar
white South Sea Pearls production.
Pearl Island became the
main station, as pearl cultivation
has been expanding to some
other islands of Myeik (Mergui)
archipelago, conducted by
state-run and joint-venture
pearl companies. The significant
fact is that the People’s
Pearl and Fishery Corporation
or Myanmar Pearl Enterprise
(MPE) was the one and only
pearl producer in Myanmar
since 1963. Foreign interest
and investments have been
flowing into various sectors
of the Myanmar economy since
Myanmar reformed its xenophobic
system to become a market-oriented
economy. Both local and
overseas (Japanese, Australian,
Tahitian, Thai) companies
have made enquiries to invest
in Myanmar for South Sea
pearl cultivation. With
the covetous glances from
investors, the pearl culture
section is also expanding
by forming joint ventures
between MPE and both local
and overseas companies.
Nowadays a total of four
companies, the state-run
MPE and three joint ventures,
are undertaking Myanmar
cultured pearl production.
MPE is the main partner
in all those three joint
ventures: two foreign and
one local. The first venture
was established in August
1993, with Niino International
Corporation of Japan forming
the Myanmar —Niino
Joint Venture Company Limited.
In January 1994, the second
joint venture was formed
between Ocean Pearl Company
Ltd of Myanmar and MPE.
The latest partner is a
giant Japanese pearl company,
Tasaki Shinju, with which
they formed a joint venture
in March 1997. Except at
Tasaki, seeding is done
by Myanmar technicians at
all companies. At first,
the Myanmar—Niino
joint venture used a Japanese
technician, but later Myanmar
technicians for MPE have
been seeding there on loan.
A proposal to form a joint
venture between MPE and
an Australian company, Atlantic,
was submitted to the Ministry
and Commission concerned.
This latest joint venture
is waiting to take part
in Myanmar cultured-pearl
production."
At
the time of our visit in
Mergui in Dec 2007, we were
reported the following:
The largest operation in
the Mergui Archipelago is
the "Tasaki"
joint-venture (Japan) with
started in 1997 with currently
about 800.000 oysters. The
second largest operation
in 2007 was "Myanmar
Orient Pearl Co Ltd",
a private Burmese joint-venture
created in 1993 under the
name of "Ocean Pearl
Co Ltd" with around
500.000 oysters. "Atlantic
Pearls", a small
Australian operation working
in the north of the archipelago
recently stopped its activities.
Their oysters and farming
equipment were to be moved
to Ravenshaw island. The
third largest operation
was reported to be the Burmese
government operation run
by "Myanmar
Pearl Enterprises"
with probably around 200.000
oysters.
Regarding the Mergui South
Sea cultured pearl production,
an article in G&G in
Fall 2007 by Russell Shor
(see bibliography) provides
some interesting information:
In 2005 Mergui was reported
to have produced about 179
kan (1 kan = 1000 momme
= 3.75 kg) on which Tasaki
alone contributed for 102
kan. It is still a modest
production compared to the
quantities reported by R.Shor
for Indonesia (1,022 kan),
Australia (850 kan) and
the Philippines (450 kan)
but it is a serious improved
compared to the 1.92 kan
reported for 1969 and the
17 kan for 1983.
This
increase in production can
be explained with the arrival
of better pearl farming
technologies imported in
Mergui mainly by Japanese
technicians and the traditional
quality of the Mergui water
in this archipelago composed
of 800 tropical islands
far away from modernity.
Mergui is becoming again
an important pearl supplier
for the Hong Kong and Japanese
pearl industry. Possibly
in the future, Mergui production
might increase to levels
seen in Australia, the Philippines
and Indonesia, the other
traditional "South
Sea Pearls" suppliers.
Our main objective for this
expedition was to visit
the "Orient Pearl Co
Ltd" operation located
on Ravenshaw
island. There "South
Sea cultured pearls"
are farmed from the giant
"Pinctada Maxima"
oysters: The term "South
Sea cultured pearl"
is defined by CIBJO
this way "Cultured
pearls from Pinctada
Maxima extensively
cultured in the Indian and
Pacific oceans including
Myanmar, Indonesia, Philippines
and Northern Australia."
while "South Sea pearls"
are "natural pearls
from Pinctada Maxima":
Here
is a modified satellite map
made using Google Earth on
which you can discover the
pearl farms of the Mergui
Archipelago. For more details
please use Google
Earth and our Mergui
placemarks.
The
"Orient Pearl Co Ltd"
company we visited is a 70/30
per cent joint-venture between
U Myint Lwin, a Burmese marine
biologist turned into a private
entrepreneur involved in fisheries
and Myanmar Pearl Enterprises.
It was created in 1993 under
the name of "Ocean Pearl
Co Ltd" and changed its
name in 2000 for "Orient
Pearl Co Ltd". We were
informed during our visit
that the company recently
acquired the farming material
and the oysters from "Atlantic
Pearls", an Australian
operation located at Elphinstone
island in the North of the
archipelago which stopped
its activity. Oysters and
equipments from "Atlantic
Pearls" were moved to
the different "Orient
Pearl" farms. "Orient
Pearl" is farming oysters
around "Zin Yaw",
"Than Pachok" and
"Taung U Yin" islands.
In 1999 "Orient Pearl"
was also running a pearl farm
near Russell island, an island
known for its rich gold mines.
Russell Island pearl farming
operation is now closed as
we were reported that the
pollution resulting from gold
mining was not suitable for
pearl farming.
The
"Orient Pearl" farm
is located on the eastern
side of the jungle covered
Ravenshaw island. The farm
buildings are facing a quiet
bay on which each morning
a beautiful sunrise is visible.
250 people are living and
working at the farm supplied
from Mergui by the boat who
took us to the island.
A
view from the operation room
where the nucleus are inserted
inside the oysters on the
residential area of the pearl
farm where we have spent several
night and the pagodas dominating
the south of the farm location.
The lodging was simple but
very comfortable, and even
a real luxury considering
the fact that the island is
very remote. For us nevertheless
the real luxury was not to
be given a comfortable bed,
even if we have appreciated
it very much. It was to enjoy
while taking breakfast a wonderful
sunrise on the bay over the
numerous boats and "long
lines"...
A
view at sunrise on the boats
and the long lines covering
the bay in front of "Orient
Pearl Co ltd" main location
on the east of Ravenshaw island.
Here is a short video taken
at sunrise over the bay
at Ravenshaw island. The
area was very peaceful.
Numerous boats were waiting
near the "long lines"
visible thanks to their
buoys.
Video: Vincent Pardieu.
"Long
lines" with their buoys
on the quiet waters of the
Mergui Archipelago. The "long
lines" are placed in
areas were there is a slight
current in order to optimize
the renewal of nutrients and
oxygen for the oysters. While
snorkeling we could notice
that the current stream was
about 3 to 4 knots near Ravenshaw
island. Strong currents do
not facilitate the work of
the divers and can be harmful
for the oysters while stagnant
waters are not a good environments
due to the build up of waste
which will pollute the area.
As pearl farming profitability
is depending not only on technology
and know how but also on the
quality of the water in which
the oysters are farmed, the
presence of several pearl
farms in the Mergui archipelago
will, we hope, motivate Mergui
people minimize the archipelago
possible pollution.
On the following photo you
can discover these scenic
"long lines" with
at the back the misty "Marble
Islands" where the bird
nests are found..
"Orient
Pearl" farm workers starting
their day using small boats
to go from the island to the
boats waiting in the bay near
the long lines.
A
diving boat and its crew are
on the way to start their
day near the "long lines".
The
best way to inspect the long
lines was to go snorkeling
among them. An interesting
task which was also a real
pleasure as the water temperature
was reported to be about 28
to 30 degrees.
A detailed view on the "long
lines". we can see
that the cages in which
the oysters are located
are not very deep. Around
Ravenshaw most oysters are
kept at about 2 meters deep.
This dept was told us to
be a good compromise between
growing rate and convenience
for the daily work as the
cages have to be cleaned
regularly. Nevertheless
during the last months before
the harvest the cages are
placed much deeper at about
30 meters in order for the
pearls to get a better luster.
A view on the suspended
flat cages hung from the
buoys-supported surface
"long lines".
The cages in which the oysters
are located are suspended
2 by 2.
Each flat cage host six
oysters and each "long
line" has 100 flat
cages. It means that a "long
line" means 600 oysters.
Another
view and a video taken while
snorkeling in the pearl lines.
We can discover here the cages
in which the juvenile oysters
are cultivated.
Here is a short video taken
while snorkeling in the
"long lines" where
some cages hosting juveniles
oysters were located.
Video: Vincent Pardieu.
Mergui
archipelago is known to be
one of the first places where
modern diving equipment was
used to collect oysters. The
following hard hat diving
equipment was bring in Mergui
in 1957 by the Japanese and
is still used today by the
divers at "Orient Pearl
Co Ltd".
The divers are traditionally
Moken or Burmese. It is a
difficult and dangerous work
as the divers often work at
depths of 80 meters in order
to collect wild oysters. These
oysters are then selected
depending of the quality of
their nacre for reproduction
purpose. Since 2002 all the
oysters cultivated at "Orient
Pearl Co Ltd" were produced
in hatcheries. A significant
change compared to 1999 when
Kham Vannaxay and Ted Themelis
visited the farm. At that
time all the oysters used
to grow pearls were wild oysters
collected in the area. Before
10 diving boats were necessary
to collect oysters, now only
two are remaining. This change
enables the wild oysters population
to prosper as pressure on
them is lower.
A
Burmese diver is preparing
for diving: The diving suit
is composed of a suit on which
the hard hat is screwed and
some lead weights. It is very
heavy. Air is sent to the
diver from a pump located
on the boat.
The
hard hat is now screwed on
the suit and the diver (myself
on the photo) is ready to
go down. The difficulty for
the diver using this equipment
is to adjust its internal
pressure. Without nose clip,
as in my case, I was told
to try to "bite"
the metal of the hard hat
in order to close the nose
and adjust this way the pressure.
In my case after testing the
equipment, I was not able
to decompress. With my very
limited diving experience
it was not reasonable to test
this diving suit deeper than
3 meters.
In
the water I was impressed
not to feel anymore the weight
of the equipment that much..
Nevertheless I was informed
before to go in the water
that using such equipment
it is necessary to stay vertical
as if the diver fall, he will
not be able to stand again
due to the weight of the hard
hat. Such a diver he will
need some help from a second
diver in order to survive.
The
diving experience was for
me short between the lines.
Just few exotic minutes for
a visiting gemologist, but
it was enough to see the difficulty
of the daily task of the Mergui
divers: By 30 to 80 meters
deep the diver has to run
and follow the boat while
collecting oysters. A mistake
under such conditions can
be his last..
During our visit of Ravenshaw
island we could witness
the activity of the 250
people working at the "Orient
Pearl" farm. Most of
the working force is busy
fabricating, cleaning or
repairing the oyster baskets,
the buoys forming the numerous
"long lines" visible
all around the island. One
of the secret of the success
of "Orient Pearl"
is that, from boats to buoys,
nearly everything is fabricated
on site.
Burmese workers cleaning
the oyster cages at Ravenshaw
island. Here the cages are
empty but the "Orient
Pearl" company own
some machines used on small
boats to clean the cages
on the "long lines".
A team of line cleaners
can clean without machines
up to 5 lines per day. Using
machines 12 lines can be
cleaned. It is necessary
to clean regularly the cages
from fouling organisms that
grow on the shells as these
marine organisms compete
with oysters for food and
add weight to the lines.
At "Orient Pearl"
the lines are cleaned monthly
in order not to stress too
much the oysters.
Burmese workers preparing
the "long lines".
This system is widely used
in the pacific. From the
buoys to the cages everything
is fabricated at the farm.
On the previous photograph,
U Myint Lwin is explaining
to Christian Dunaigre and
Kham Vannaxay the secrets
of the "long lines"
using the beautiful western
beach of Ravenshaw island
as a teaching board:
The "long lines"
are typically 100 meters
long and 5 to 10 lines are
grouped together. They are
placed on different locations
around Ravenshaw island
in order to limit the risks
in case of accident. We
were told that 3 to 4 days
are necessary to install
a group of "long lines"
which needs to be adapted
to each locations specifications.
It is not an easy work.
The lines are fixed on the
sea bed using several weights,
the number of long lines
and of weights is depending
of the current power on
each location.
On Ravenshaw island a group
of young Burmese women are
preparing and repairing
oyster boxes. At Ravenshaw
island, as in many parts
of Burma, Burmese women
use a very traditional powder
made of wood called "Tanaka"
to protect their skin from
the sun.
U Myo Thant, working as
"Pearl Culturist"
at "Orient Pearl Co
ltd" present us a Pinctada
maxima shell on which
we can see some drawings
delimitating golden and
silver areas.
Using this shell he was
explaining to us that the
piece of mantle inserted
in the oyster with the nucleus
during the grafting will
decide of the final color
of the cultured pearl produced:
Using an external part of
the mantle the cultured
pearl will be of a golden
color similar to the color
visible in the shell in
the external part of the
shell. Now if the piece
of mantle inserted is coming
from a more inner part it
will be white or silver
color as the color visible
in the central area of the
shell U Myo Thant present
to us.
PRODUCING "CULTURED
SOUTH SEA PEARLS" IN
MERGUI:
The difference between "South
Sea Pearls" and "South
Sea Cultured Pearls"
is that in the case of cultured
pearls a nucleus and a tissue
graft are inserted in the
oyster during a surgical
operation called "grafting".
In the cases of natural
pearls the process is purely
natural and somewhere "accidental".
Maria Haus on her "Basic
method of pearl farming"
p 51 gives a good explanation
on this subject:
"Natural pearls occurs
when a foreign body irritates
the pearl oyster. Nacre
is secreted around the foreign
body by the mantle tissues
to protect the oyster's
tissues. Grafting is a means
of imitating this natural
process so a cultured pearl
can be grown. Grafting is
a surgical implantation
of a shell nucleus and a
tissue graft (a small piece
of mantle tissue) into the
pearl oyster."
At "Orient Pearl Co
Ltd" some oysters are
selected to provide tissue
grafts while others will
become hosts. The oysters
selected to become donors
are selected for the quality
of their nacre. The tissue
graft have to be carefully
cut at the quality of the
cutting work will have consequences
for the final quality of
the cultured pearl produced.
On the other hand the host
oysters are not selected
for the quality of the nacre
but for their stamina. At
"Orient Pearl"
currently vigorous, fast
growing young oysters around
12 cm in size coming from
hatcheries are selected
as host oysters. Before
2002, wild oysters about
14 cm in size were found
to be the best hosts.
Before the surgical operation
the selected oysters are
kept for several weeks in
special boxes with tiny
holes in order to limit
the amount of food available
for the oysters. We were
explained that the purpose
of this diet is to weaken
a little the oysters which
will then be less likely
to reject the nucleus.
At "Orient Pearl"
the nucleus and the grafting
tissue are inserted in the
gonad, the reproductive
organ of the pinctada maxima
oysters. This explain why
grafting is not performed
from March to May, the reproductive
period of the oysters as
during that period the oyster
gonads are full of gametes.
The oyster surgical operation
is not a complicated task
but it needs a lot of skills
and concentration to be
performed correctly as the
death rate after grafting
and the quality of the pearls
produced depends also of
the quality of work of the
grafting technician.
To minimize the death rate
and the oyster stress during
the grafting which could
result in nucleus rejection,
the oysters are first anesthetized
for about 30 minutes using
a magnesium chlorate solution.
All the instruments used
during the grafting operation
are carefully cleaned and
sterilized using fresh water.
We could witness that the
grafting operation was taking
less than a minute per oyster.
Working fast is important
for grafting technicians
but they are also evaluated
for the quality of the final
work as each oyster is followed:
Minimal death rate, lowest
reject rate and also quality
of the pearls produced are
major factor in the evaluation
of a grafting technician.
At "Orient Pearl"
we could see that four grafting
technicians were working
in the operation room together
with several other technicians
preparing for them the tissues
grafts. The operation room
is very quiet but very busy
and more than 80.000 oysters
were reported to have been
grafted between June and
December 2007.
Here is a short vide showing
the complete process, from
the sacrifice of the donor
oyster to provide tissue
graft, to the insertion
of the nucleus and the tissue
graft into the host oyster.
Video: Vincent Pardieu,
2007
After the grafting the oysters
are placed in special boxes
at 7 meters depth in order
to minimize the oyster stress
and limit the percentage
of nucleus rejections. After
3 months the oysters are
inspected using an X-Ray
machine. We were reported
that usually less than 10%
of the oysters are found
to reject the nucleus. At
"Orient Pearls"
such oysters are usually
inserted a new nucleus.
If not a so called South
Sea Keshi pearl will be
produced from the small
piece of mantle graft which
was inserted. If a nucleus
is inserted again a baroque
pearl which can display
2 different colors can be
produced.
At "Orient Pearl"
the oyster that have undergone
surgery will stay in the
water for a period of 18
months to 2 years. During
that time a thick layer
of nacre will coat the bead
which was inserted. It was
very interesting to see
as in the following photograph
the result from a random
harvest: These pearls were
produced by oysters grafted
the same day by the same
technician and they stayed
for the same period in the
water the same cage:
As you can see, the pearls
produced are not only different
in color, but also in size.
It was something very interesting
for us. U Myint Lwin explained
to us that if the color
is depending mainly of the
small tissue graft which
was inserted during the
operation, the difference
in size seems to be mainly
due to the host oyster:
An interesting subject for
further research.
U Myint Lwin told us that
" Orient Pearl Co Ltd"
production was composed
globally of 70% of golden
pearls and 30% of silver
pearls.
Conclusion: This
expedition to Mergui was
a great experience for Christian
and myself as we were dreaming
to visit the Mergui archipelago
pearl farms for many years.
We were not disappointed.
We have spend in Mergui
some exceptional moments
with wonderful people. We
were able to literally dive
in the world of cultured
pearls and discover some
of its fascinating secrets.
We could collect some interesting
samples and data to work
on back home in Switzerland.
I hope that visiting this
page was a pleasant experience
for you and that you will
appreciate more Burma, its
people and its pearls.
(U Myint Lwin, U Tin Nge
and Kham Vannaxay in Ravenshaw
island)
I would
like to thanks particularly
for his precious help U
Myint Lwin as without his
help we could not have been
able to visit Mergui and
its pearl farms. I would
like also to thanks U Tin
Nge to have been such a
great guide in the archipelago.
Thanks to you an old dream
became true.
I would also like to thanks
my friend Kham Vannaxay
(from Sofragem,
Bangkok) as without him
we could not have visited
Mergui and Christian Dunaigre
and myself would still dreaming
to visit one day Mergui..
Thanks
Kham!
Finally
I don't want to forget to
thanks the Gubelin
Gem Lab in Lucerne,
Switzerland, my fellow gemologists
and colleagues working there
for their support in the
realization of this expedition.
Interesting
Links and Bibliography about
pearls from the Mergui archipelago:
"Historically
Famous Myanmar South Sea
Pearl" by Myanmar
Pearl Enterprises. website:
An interesting up to date
article relating the history
of pearl farming in Mergui. "Treasures
of Mergui" by Ted
Themelis: this article was
also published in Gemkey
May June 2000, It is an
interesting report as Themelis
visited in 1999 the same
pearl farming operation
as we did in 2007. It is
interesting to compare our
reports to understand that
pearl farming in Mergui
had experienced a real revolution
during the past seven years.
"Photo
gallery of Mergui Archipelago
(Burma)" by Ted
Themelis.
"Myanmar
pearling: past, present
and future" by
Tint Tun: This article is
also available as pdf in
"Pearl Oyster Information
Bulletin, number 12, dec
1998".
"Atlantic
Pearls": The website
of the former Australian-Burmese
joint venture farming pearl
oysters in Mergui.
" The first area where
diving equipment resulted
in an increase in yields
was in the Mergui Archipelago
where, according to an official
report by Rudmose Brown
and Simpson in 1907, there
was “no systematic
pearling in the archipelago
before 1891 when the attention
of the Government was drawn
to these banks by a Queensland
pearler [presumably from
the Torres Straits].”
To manage this fishery,
the Government of Burma
immediately introduced a
“block system”
whereby the government auctioned
the rights to collect pearl
oysters in five “blocks”
covering the richest pearling
grounds. As a result of
this system the mentality
was adopted that it was
imperative to extract as
much pearl shell as possible
during the year as the same
company would not necessarily
secure the same block the
following year. Official
figures indicate that yields
rose dramatically from 26
tonnes in 1891/92 to 340
tonnes in 1894/95, leading
to the emergence of Mergui
as a boomtown. By 1900/01
the yield had fallen to
66 tonnes, and the government
abolished the block system
and replaced it by a system
under which pearlers bought
a licence for each pump
they used. There was apparently
no limit on the number of
licenses used.
During this period the
accepted view was that there
was little danger of overexploitation
of the Mergui pearl beds
as the beds were continually
restocked by the offspring
produced by oysters in deeper
waters beyond the reach
of the divers. It was argued
that there was a “natural
balance” between the
number of divers and the
quantity of shell available
for, as yields fell, divers
would leave and the stocks
would recover. As a result
it was concluded there was
no need for any sort of
regulation of the Mergui
pearl fishery."
"
... The other great pearling
area of ancient times lay
in Southeast Asia, the Mergui
Archipelago of Burma-Myanmar,
the Leizhou Peninsula of
southern China, and the
Sulu Islands of the southern
Philippines. With long histories
of reasonably continuous
use, these supplied pearls
to markets that lay outside
the sphere of the Bombay-centered
commercial system that controlled
the bulk of the world's
pearl trade.
Mergui and Sulu, as well
as occasionally exploited
pearl beds in eastern Indonesia,
produced a different kind
of pearls, golden ones from
the very large pearl oyster
species Pinctada maxima.
The pearls were much larger
than those from Sri Lanka
and the Persian Gulf, and
are exceptionally beautiful
in modern eyes: even now,
insiders claim that the
finest cultured pearls in
the world come from Mergui.
Early pearl buyers may not
have agreed, however. Southeast
Asian pearls were not a
major factor in the world's
jewelry trade. The Chinese
knew about them but obviously
preferred pearls from places
further west, and the Indians
and Persians may not even
have known that Southeast
Asian pearls existed.
China itself had a moderately
active marine pearl fishery,
off the Leizhou Peninsula
and northern Hainan Island
just east of Vietnam. The
Leizhou pearl fishery remained
active from at least the
1st century BC down through
the 17th century AD, during
which time it sporadically
produced large quantities
of medium-quality pearls.
As in the case of the Sri
Lankan fisheries, those
of Leizhou were boom-and-bust
affairs, with a few years
of feverish activity followed
by several decades of quiescence
while the stocks of Pinctadas
rebuilt themselves ...
... Interestingly, while
pearl divers in the western
Indian Ocean area tended
to be free individuals who
were kept in debt to pearl
merchants, those in Southeast
Asia were members of outcast
groups who were effectively
unfree. They belonged to
the Sea Gypsies or Mawken
in Myanmar, the Bajau in
Sulu and the Danjia or Tanka
in southern China. They
were often, and perhaps
always, forced laborers,
compelled by local leaders
to dive for pearls. As Yuan
Zhen's poem suggests, the
divers' lot was not a happy
one.."
"Melo
pearls from Myanmar"
A very interesting article
about another fascinating
treasure of the Mergui archipelago:
melo pearls on palagems.com
Interesting
Links and Bibliography about
Pearls, "South Sea Pearls"
and pearl farming:
The literature. on pearls
in general is very important
but here are some links,
articles and books references
that I've found useful:
The
"CIBJO
pearl book": A
useful reference book about
terminology and classification
of natural, cultured and
imitation pearls. As an
example is interesting to
read the CIBJO definition
for South Sea Pearls: "Natural
pearls from Pinctada
Maxima" and for
Cultured South Sea pearls:
"Cultured pearls from
Pinctada Maxima
extensively cultured in
the Indian and Pacific oceans
including Myanmar, Indonesia,
Philippines and Northern
Australia."
"South
Sea Pearls | Australia,
Indonesia, Myanmar, New
Guinea" by khulsey.com:
An interesting article about
South Sea Pearls.
"Pearl
farms of the world, full
list" by khulsey.com:
A very interesting link
with a list of pearl farms
worldwide.
"Gems
and Gemology data depository:
Expended localities for
cultured pearls and natural
pearls": A very
interesting pdf with a list
of pearl farms and natural
pearl producing areas worldwide.
"The
basic method of Pearl farming:
A layman Manual"
By Maria Haws: An excellent
pdf explaining most of what
needs to be known to understand
pearl farming..
"A description of pearl
farming with Pinctada
Maxima in South East
Asia" by H. Hanni,
Journal of Gemmology., 2007,
30, 7/8, 357-365: A very
interesting report about
"South Sea Pearl"
farming in Indonesia in
which we can notice many
similarities with what we
saw in Mergui.
"From single source
to global free market: The
transformation of the cultured
pearl industry" by
Russell Shor. Gems &
Gemology, Fall 2007.
"Spectral reflectance
and fluorescence characteristics
of natural color and heat
treated "golden"
South Sea cultured pearls"
by Shane Elen, Gems &
Gemology, vol 37, Summer
2001, pp.114-123.
"Update on the identification
of treated "golden"
South Sea cultured pearls"
by Shane Elen, Gems &
Gemology, vol 38, Summer
2002, pp.156-159.
"Treatment
and coloration of South
Sea cultured Pearls"
by Elizabeth Strack from
her book: "Pearls"
(2006)
"Myanmar expected to
produce 200 kan in 2006"
Jewelry News Asia, 2006,
No 259, p.65
"Pearls,
glossary of pearl terms"
by Paula M. Mikkelsen, Ph.D.,
American Museum of Natural
History.
"Pearls:
A natural History"
by Neil H.Landman &
Al. (2001),
"Pearls"
by Fred Ward (1998),
"Pearl
Buying Guide: How to evaluate,
identify and select pearls
& pearl jewelry"
By Renee Newman (2004)
Pearls can be found in the nature from a large variety of sea animals from oysters, to sea snails: as we can see in the following page from Natural pearl lover Thomas Hochstrasser
Interesting General
Links about Mergui archipelago:
To
translate this page into your language:
click on your language flag on the
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Important Note: Vincent Pardieu is an employee of GIA (Gemological Institute of America) Laboratory Bangkok since Dec 2008. Any views expressed on this website - and in particular any views expressed by Vincent Pardieu - are the authors' opinions and do not necessarily reflect the opinions of GIA or GIA Laboratory Bangkok. GIA takes no responsibility and assumes no liability for any content on this website nor is GIA liable for any mistakes or omissions you may encounter. GIA is in particular not screening, editing or monitoring the content on this website and has no possibility to remove, screen or edit any content.